Jean-Paul Coveralls

I have been obsessing over the Coverall trend since it first hit the high street and have been planning this exact pair for a long time. But why did it take me so long to get around to making them?

I think my biggest fear was that they wouldn’t suit me, or I would get the fit completely wrong. I don’t own a lot of jumpsuits so I don’t have a lot of experience with them. I have an entire Pinterest board dedicated to them and it was something I really wanted to make.

I had a vision for a pair made from Tencel to replicate some of the dressier versions I had pinned (plus it is my favourite fabric) and when The Dad Hand had their amazing sale this year I had to snap up some of this green. I bought 2.5m which was what the pattern recommended, but only just squeezed it in with the adjustments I made to the pattern. It was a close call!

Green tencel along with other fabrics purchased fro The Dab Hand. The DabHand

I had the fabric pre-washed and the pattern cut out pretty quickly. I had prepared the pattern last summer for a different project only to find I didn’t have enough fabric, so trying to figure out which version I had planned to make took a little time. Obviously I didn’t make a note of this at the time… that would have made to much sense! I made View 2 of the expansion pack with the hidden button placket.

I added extra length to the bodice and trousers. Adding length to the rise is standard for me, usually one to two inches depending on the pattern. For this pattern I wanted to add to the bodice as well so when it was belted it would hang over the belt. This style suits me best. I knew from previously making the Jazz jumpsuit I would need this extra length here too. I made size 38, added 1 inch to the bodice and 1 inch to the trouser rise.

Once I had this figured out there was a lot of stopping and starting with this project. I brought it with me to a sewing day and had issues from the start. I sewed the bust pleats only to realise they were not aligned after I had pressed them. The neck stretched so it was difficult to attach the collar stand. Or I possibly did something wrong here which would explain some of the other problems I had further down the line. I’m still not sure.

I fixed all these issues and then the top half sat hanging for over a month before I decided to continue with it. The instructions for the fly left me in a bit of a stump, but I muddled my way through as best I could and finally had something I could try on. I was ecstatic with the fit and couldn’t wait to attach the buttons so I could wear it.

I hung it up after trying it on and realised the front fly was not in line with the button placket. It was sitting out further than it should so you could see it when the buttons were done. After this there was a lot of head scratching, “hangry” tantrums and very nearly tears. I managed to get it all lined up in the end but I know it is still not right. But, I will not let it put me off trying this pattern again and I am already dreaming up a linen version.

My advice if you are planning to make this is take your time over the fly and make sure you are attaching the fly extension in the right place. And stay stitch the neckline. I made a mix of views from the expansion pack, so I was switching a lot between the different instructions on my iPad. Next time I will print both sets of instructions and highlight the sections that are relevant to me. I think this will limit some of the confusion I experienced too.

There is a step that is out of order in the Expansion pack. In the image below there is a line on the back bodice piece but no instruction as to why it was there. I checked with the original instructions and discovered it was a dart, which appeared later on in the Expansion pack instructions.

However, with all the trouble this garment caused me it is definitely one of my favourites! I am so happy I have finally made it and there will definitely be more added to my wardrobe in the future!

I was feeling the Top Gun/Captain Marvel vibes 😂

Happy Sewing!

Sharlene xx