I was absolutely thrilled to be asked to pattern test the new Friday Pattern Company pattern, the Ilford Jacket. This pattern is Chelsea’s first non-binary pattern and it is gooood! I can easily see this pattern working on guys and girls, when I’m wearing my versions I definitely don’t feel like I’m wearing a men’s pattern. Likewise, I could definitely see me making this for Darren.
This pattern is well suited for beginners who want to dip their toe into shirt or jacket making. The pattern is easy to follow and there are none of the complications parts of a shirt (collar stands, plackets, etc.). There are 2 different sleeve options, giving you a chance to try out a placket sleeve with a cuff, 2 different lengths and soooo many pocket combinations. I promise you will have so much fun with these!
For my first version I went for the longer length in a black watch tartan linen I had in my stash. I debated over the fabric choice for a while but I will get a lot of wear from this version as a light jacket or belted as a dress.
I used the long sleeve with cuff, the hand warmer lower pockets and upper pockets with the little pencil pocket on top- this is the cutest detail ever! The construction was very easy to follow and some of the more complicated steps are taken care of first which I like.
This is such an easy item to through on. I love how much the linen has softened now and although it is lightweight it still keeps me warm.
For my next version I switched things up a bit and really made the pattern my own. I went for the short style in this amazing Robert Kaufman cotton flannel from Sister Mintaka. I love the colours in this fabric, it will go with basically everything in my wardrobe!
I put the collar on the opposite way to what the pattern suggests this time, sewing the right side of the collar to the wrong side of the jacket. I then sewed the front placket to the outside. This gives the effect of a separate placket instead of one folded from the fabric (I hope that makes sense?). I also folded the hem to the outside. This gave the jacket the feeling of a classic jean jacket style and I love it! If I had thought it through I would have used a flat cell seam at the sides but I like the little bit of overlocking you can see at the side. Especially since I have started using constrasting threads in my overlocker.
I used the hand warmer pockets again but took a bit of depth out of them so they would fit on the jacket (but still fit my phone!) and the upper pockets with a flap with a little hidden detail. Honestly the options to make this jacket your own are endless.
I would definitely recommend this pattern to all levels. It is quick to sew and the possibilities are endless. I am planning my next version in this amazing heavy weave fabric I got from a destash.
Have you tried this pattern yet?